Wispy white clouds in the sky and muted shades of blue meet the Dead Sea in Israel, creating a hazy scene, giving it a biblical look. “Is there always a haze over the Dead Sea?” I asked our Israeli tour guide, Ziva Cohen. Not always, she said. But that haze is no mirage. It’s the result of continuous evaporation from the shrinking Dead Sea, located 1,300 feet below sea level.
The Dead Sea was one of many fascinating, and rather surreal, sights during my recent fall visit to Israel, where sunny, mild weather reminded me of my hometown in southern California. I was on assignment to write about multi-generational travel to Israel. So it was fitting that I bonded with a small group of journalists from all over the U.S. ranging in age from 30s to 60s, along with Ziva and our private driver. Our journey began and ended in Tel Aviv, and we traversed through Israel in a large van, staying in five different hotels in seven nights. We saw each other at our best and worst, and named our WhatsApp group, Israel Family Travel. I love road trips. I think it’s the best way to learn about an area, especially with a local guide. It was a week of cultural, historical, adventurous and culinary experiences.
Tel Aviv
Upon my arrival in Tel Aviv after a 15-hour flight from Los Angeles, Ziva suggested I take a nap before meeting up with the rest of our group that evening. No way, it was barely noon and I couldn’t wait to see Tel Aviv, Israel’s capital. So, Ziva, two other writers and I went straight to Carmel Market, a bustling place with food stalls selling produce, prepared foods, clothing, jewelry, anything you could want. Bordered by Allenby Street and Magen David Square, the marketplace is where locals shop for groceries and gifts, said Ziva.
Ziva treated us to kobe bulgar, tasty seasoned minced beef baked in fried wheat, and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. It was the first of many good culinary treats.
After walking around a bit we checked into the Center Chic Hotel, a small boutique establishment with a free happy hour and breakfast at a sister hotel across the street. More writers arrived, and dinner that night was at Dr. Shakshuka, a cozy courtyard restaurant. The signature dish is shakshuka, a tomato stew topped with a fried egg and served in a frying pan. This popular Israeli dish is served at restaurants and hotels throughout the state.
Old Jaffa
Located in the southern part of Tel Aviv, Jaffa is an ancient port city with religious significance.
It’s here that the story of Jonah and the whale took place, and where Saint Peter raised Tabitha from the dead, according to Acts of the Apostles.
Jaffa is a charming city with narrow streets, a pretty waterfront, fountains, and historic buildings, including St. Peter’s Church. At a nearby flea market I bought some hansa earrings and we sampled some pomegranate wine. A Middle Eastern symbol of protection, hansa products – from keychains and magnets to jewelry – are found everywhere. Ditto for pomegranates, from freshly made juice to household items.
Lovely views of downtown Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean make Jaffa a scenic place to visit day or night.
Masada and the Dead Sea
Around noon, we left Jaffa for Masada, about a two-hour drive south. Along the way, we passed Bedouin settlements. Ziva explained that Israelis don’t approve of these unauthorized desert settlements by nomadic Arabs. Over the years, Israel has encouraged the Bedouins to take up a more settled way of life in urban communities. Other than the few settlements we passed and a few strip malls, most of our view was of the vast Negev Desert.
Finally we got our first glimpse of the Dead Sea, situated at 1,300 feet below sea level. The blue sea was calm, not a ripple, looking more like a lake beneath a hazy sky. We continued the drive to nearby Masada, the site of the ruins of King Herod’s mountaintop fortress, built around 30 B.C.
Although you can walk the steep path (about a 60-90 minute hike one way), most people, including our group, opted for the 10-minute cable car with panoramic desert views. As we strolled through the ruins (with black marks distinguishing the original structures), I pondered how those early Romans managed to build such a massive fortress at such a high location. The ruins of King Herod’s Palace include over three rock terraces and a Roman-style bathhouse with mosaic floors. One of the bathhouses was even built with a primitive but effective heating system. People are free to explore on their own but I was glad we had Ziva to explain the history of the fortress, which is today a symbol of freedom to Jews. During the Jewish-Roman war, the Jewish families hiding in the fortress chose to die rather than be captured by the Romans. The Jewish familes killed their wives and children, and the last man standing took his own life.
The Dead Sea
fter checking into the Isrotel Dead Sea Hotel, we quickly put on our bathing suits, eager to float in the sea known for its high saline concentration (about 30-35 percent). The water was much more clear than I expected, and the bottom much sharper. Ouch, why didn’t we know to wear water shoes! We gingerly walked on the sharp salt bottom before sitting down and paddling out.
Just 31 miles long and nine miles wide, the Dead Sea is just that – no plants or animals can live in there. But people come from all over the world for the area’s health benefits, namely the black mud. In fact, we each had a mud wrap at the resort’s no-frills spa facility. My spa therapist was rather abrupt, telling me to”hurry, hurry” as he briskly led the way to the treatment room. Later, over wine, my colleagues and I compared similar notes, chalking up our experiences to cultural differences.
The next morning, a few of us rose early to watch the sunrise over the Dead Sea. We were surprised that the sky was already light even before the sun actually rose. But we enjoyed the view of the sun rising over Israel, and Jordan on the opposite shore.
Before checking out of the hotel, my friend Felicity and I went for a swim, or rather a soak, in the spa’s pool filled with water from the Dead Sea. At first we held on to the side of the pool to walk around, but soon got used to the water’s buoyancy and kind of giggled as we moved from one end to the next.
Sfint Hamidber and Bedouin Hospitality
Our next stop was Sfint Hamidber (Hebrew for Desert Ship), a Bedouin camp in the Negev Desert in southern Israel. About a 20- minute drive from Beersheba (the largest city in the Negev desert), the Bedouin camp offers lodging, meals and attractions. It’s a place to experience local Beduin customs and learn about the nomadic Arab people. This camp, which offers lodging, meals and attractions, is a good example of how nomadic Arabs can settle in an area and operate a business to provide for their families.
With the language barrier, we didn’t communicate much with our hosts but felt welcomed.
First we rode camels, then enjoyed a meal with our host. Two by two we got on the kneeling camels, and held on tightly as one by one, starting at the front, they rose to a standing position. I have to admit, I was a bit nervous about falling. The camels are tall! And because the camels were all connected by rope, I worried that if one tripped we would all fall. But our slow, guided walk through the desert was uneventful.
Afterwards, we washed up and sat on cushions on the floor in a large, open-air tent. A table low to the floor, was set with coffee cups. With Ziva as our translator, our host told us about the Bedouin life. How men often father many children with several wives. As he spoke, we were served platters of pita bread, salad and hummus.
Ramon Quarter, Negev Desert
We got another view of the desert in the Ramon Quarter, which sits on a 23-mile long crater. It’s a small desert town that for many years was overlooked but now offers excursions, such as rappelling and guided jeep tours. Two members of our group took on the challenge of rappelling down a short distance on a steep cliff. Next, we went on a bumpy jeep tour through the desert as the late afternoon sun cast a golden glow. We had several opportunities to get out and walk with our guide who pointed out plants, geological formations, and the occasional wildlife.
A Walk Through Jerusalem’s History
A trip highlight for me was the day we spent in Jerusalem, Israel’s capital. I was looking forward to seeing this historic city and walking in the steps of Jesus. First we strolled through the bustling Machane Yehuda Market, strolling through aisles and aisles of produce, meats, prepared food, sweets, clothing and much more. Hungry, we stopped for lunch at one of the many little cafes. We ordered an assortment of falafels, rice, hummus and pita.
Next, we drove to the Holy City. Stay tuned.